Western Palearctic Birding

Israel, March 2006

The usual trio of me Justin and Andy set out to cover the whole of Israel and seriously boost our WP lists!

Flying into Tel Aviv our itinerary took us to the NW Negev Desert for a couple of days, then south eastwards to the southern Arava Valley where we stayed for 6 nights at Kibbutz Lotan c50 km north of Eilat. From there we headed north to the Dead Sea, Mount Gilboa and finally all the way north to Mount Hermon on the Syrian border before heading back to the Mediterranean coast and back to Tel Aviv.

We stayed at 3 different kibbutzim - Kibbutz Gvulot near Nizzana, Kibbutz Lotan http://www.birdingisrael.com and Kibbutz Beit Alfa near Beit Sh'ean. All were excellent in terms of cheap, clean accomodation with birding on your doorstep. Particularly Lotan which is absolutely amazing for birds. Food at all 3 did leave a little to be desired however so we'd recommend eating off site where possible.

206 species were recorded in 11 days of which 44 were new WP birds for me

Main sites visited:

NW Negev area - Nizzana, Oasis at Ezuz, Nizzana Sewage Ponds, Yeroham Reservoir, Ein Avdat and Mizpe Ramon town.

Lotan/Eilat area - KM20, Eilat North Beach, Ofira Park Eilat, KM76, Kibbutz Lotan, Eilat Mountains, Southern Date Palms Eilat, KM19, Eilat Cemetry, Yotvata and En Netaphim

Dead Sea area - En Gedi and Neot Hakkikar 

Kibbutz Beit Alfa area - Mount Gilboa, Nir David Fishponds, Wadi Armud, Kfar Ruppin Fishponds and Neve Eitan Fishponds.

Mount Hermon area - Mount Hermon and Neve Ativ

Mediterranean Coast - Ma'agan Mikhael

   

Birding the Negev at Nizzana 

20 March 2006 

A travelling day with the main event being the loss of Justin's bag at Tel Aviv airport! It was eventually traced to someone else's car boot heading across Tel Aviv thinking it was their bag! 2 hours of phone calls and hanging about and we'd recovered it and were on out way south to find Kibbutz Gvulot in the dark. It was eventually found after some trouble (not very advisible so close to the Gaza Strip!).

The only notable sightings were a Cape Hare in the headlights and a Scops Owl trying it's best to keep us awake at the kibbutz.

21 March 2006

An early start and following an hour's drive (picking up Dorcas Gazelle, a sandy Red Fox and several Brown-necked Ravens) and we were in position along the desert road at Nizzana. The next couple of hours were magical - 2 MacQueen's Bustards (including one right by the road down to just 20 yards), 4 Cream-coloured Coursers, 2 Desert Larks, 1 Eastern Mourning Wheatear and 4 Desert Wheatears.

Following that introduction to birding in Israel we drove a few miles further down the same road to an oasis at the village of Ezuz where we picked up a stonking male Pallid Harrier, 1 Eastern Orphean Warbler, 3 Ruppell's Warblers, 2 Palestine Sunbirds, 6 Arabian Babblers, 4 Yellow-vented Bulbuls plus Wryneck, Black-eared Wheatear and Spanish Sparrow amongst the commoner species. 

Nizzana Sewage Pools beckoned and although we were a bit late for drinking sandgrouse we did manage a good range of species the best being Trumpeter Finch, Isabelline Wheatear, Bluethroat, Black-headed Wagtail and 2 dapper Spur-winged Plovers. 

Next stop was Yeroham Reservoir where we all scored with 2 new WP ticks - Rock Martin and Graceful Warbler together with the great find of a vagrant Purple Gallinule, Olivaceous Warbler, 2 stunning 'samamiscus' Redstarts, a pair of Palestine Sunbirds, Hoopoe and Short-toed Eagle. Poodling back towards the kibbutz we scooped another Mourning Wheatear and 2 Cretchzmar's Buntings plus many Spur-winged Plovers, Black Kites and Cattle Egrets.

Late afternoon and evening around the kibbutz grounds were also productive with Hen Harrier, Black Redstart, numerous Graceful Warblers and Laughing Doves plus some common species back home that are tricky in most of Israel like Blackbird, Robin and Song Thrush.

  

Laughing Dove, Gvulot      

  

Yellow-vented Bulbul, Gvulot 

22 March 2006

An early morning start with a packed breakfast from the kibbutz saw us back at Nizzana Sewage Pools and in position awaiting the dawn showing of sandgrouse - which didn't happen! There were plenty of other good birds around including another fantastic male Pallid Harrier, 2 Short-toed Eagles, 6 Marsh Sandpipers, c15 Spur-winged Plovers, a couple of Black-headed Wagtails and an interesting Water Pipit of the race 'coutellii'. Even the breakfast didn't provide comfort - especially for Justin with it's fishy content! By late morning when all hope of sandgrouse (apart from a couple of Black-bellied which had put in an appearance) had faded there was a bubbling call on the breeze and in flew a magnificent flock of 27 Crowned Sandgrouse. To see the most difficult of the sandgrouse this late in the day and in these number was a real boost, joined as they were by 3 Spotted Sandgrouse. 

   

Crowned Sandgrouse, Nizzana

       

Unimpressive breakfast, Nizzana!

Buoyed by our success the next stop was the steep ravine and cliffs at Ein Advat, an hour's drive to the south and en-route through the Negev towards Lotan. This site is a national park requiring a ticket to enter but the spectacular views are worth the entrance fee alone. The birding was spectacular here too despite the coachlaods of noisy schoolchildren. In an hour and a half we'd notched up 3 Egyptian Vultures, 10 Griffon Vultures, 4 Bonelli's Eagles (the nesting speciality here), 3 Mourning Wheatears, 4 Desert Larks, c5 Rock Martins, our first 2 Scrub Warblers of the trip, 1 Olivaceous Warbler, 2 stunning Little Green Bee-eaters, 3 Tristram's Grackles and a Bushy-tailed Jird! For the botanist there were also several Desert Broomrape.

Onward to the south again and a stop at the town of Mizpe Ramon where we not only scooped the wintering Hume's Warbler but also a nice female Orphean Warbler and a very showy Nightingale in some ornamental gardens.

After a long drive we eventually reached Kibbutz Lotan as dusk fell but still added Blackstart to our WP lists ) plus a few other migrants hinting of what was to come) before hitting the sack.

23 March 2006

An pre-breakfast walk around the kibbutz and another stroll at lunchtime showed just how good this oasis in the desert is. The highlights were the long-staying 1st summer Sociable Plover on the football field, c8 Hoopoes, 1 Tawny Pipit, c8 Red-throated Pipits, Black-headed Wagtail, 2 Blue Rock Thrushes, c8 Redstarts, c5 Bluethroats (1 white-spotted), 2 Isabelline Wheatears, 1 Eastern Bonelli's Warbler, 1 Woodchat, 1 Masked Shrike, 3 Palestine Sunbirds and c6 Cretzschmars Buntings.

       

After a very speedy breakfast and a pretty speedy drive south towards Eilat we found ourselves at the saltpans at KM20 searching amongst the large flock of Greater Flamingoes for our 1st WP mega of the trip - a Lesser Flamingo found a few days earlier by a group of Finnish birders. The bird was found without too much trouble even though it's small size meant it could hide very easily behind a Greater. The large saltpans here hold huge numbers of waders in the right conditions and by driving right round the edges some excellent views can be had from the car. We counted 20+ Kentish Plovers, 2 Little Ringed Plovers, 1 Greater Sandplover, loads of Black-winged Stilts, 8 Marsh Sandpipers, 2 Spotted Redshanks, 2 Black-tailed Godwits, 1 Green Sandpiper and several Little Stints amongst the commoner species. Gulls were well represented too with 3+ Caspian Gulls, c20 Baltic Gulls, 2 Heuglin's Gulls and numerous Slender-billed Gulls.

Lesser Flamingo, KM20

Our morning of cleaning up on rarities present for the past few days continued with a dash to North Beach, Eilat for Brown Booby. The bird duly obliged and gave some memorable views at it dived to catch fish inside the marina wall.

Next stop was Ofira Park in Eilat where we duly ticked off the nesting Indian House Crows, one of those ' just gotta do species' plus some unexpected Ring-necked Parakeets and a few migrants including Olivaceous Warbler , Bluethroat and 2 Masked Shrikes.

Our afternoon was to be spent in the company of Jonathan Meyrev the resident birder at Lotan on one of his tours. A small group of us set off north from the kibbutz straight after lunch and headed to KM76 only a short drive away. Here some diligent scanning revealed a wonderful group of 17 Temminck's Larks (a personal favourite) accompanied by c10 Short-toed Larks and a single Lesser Short-toed Lark. Also present at the site were Isabelline Wheatear, Wryneck and Egyptian Vulture. Onwards it then was to a flooded pool beside the main N90 road at Neot Hakkikar towards the southern end of the Dead Sea. In a quick stop we managed  the hoped for Dead Sea Sparrow (2), 1 Rock Martin and 4 Garganey. Migrant waders were represented by c5 Kentish Plovers, c8 Little Stints and several Black-winged Stilts. Just a few miles further down a side road we stopped at the main site of the day and spent a good couple of hours birding the reeds, pools and marshes at a fish farm on the southern edge of the Dead Sea. It was to prove an excellent site with mega views of 3 Clamorous Reed Warblers, our first Citrine Wagtail of the trip, 2 Smyrna Kingfishers, a Glossy Ibis, 5 Great White Egrets, Water Rail, Redstart, Bluethroat, Graceful Warblers and some stunning close up views of a male Dead Sea Sparrow. As the late afternoon wore on we left the site to meet Joav Perlman and be escorted onto a private and very sensitive site right beside the Jordanian border. Here we weaved our way between the 'Danger Minefield' signs onto an area of scrubby saltmarsh and waited for dark. A hushed silence in the group was broken by the distinctive call of Nubian Nightjar and when one alighted on the track some 40 meters away we were all treated to some great views by flashlight. Cue the first use of Justin's master blaster light which has since become (in)famous!

                      

24 March 2006

The day dawned clear and flushed with sucess from such an excellent day the previous day we set off on our early morning rounds of the kibbutz. The place proved to be crawling with birds and we quickly notched up another WP tick in the form of a diminutive male Namaqua Dove showing very well near the dairy. The ringers were attracting some attention and we had some wonderful 'in the hand' views of Short-toed Lark, Nightingale, Bluethroat, Sardinian Warbler, Quail and memorably Little Green Bee-eater. Even earlier that morning the group had ringed Cinereous Bunting and not to be gripped off we managed to locate the bird in question high up in trees beside the organic garden. Other goodies in the grounds were 6+ Red-throated Pipits, Black-eared Wheatear, Isabelline Wheatear, a male Ruppell's Warbler, c8 Bluethroats, the Sociable Plover and 6+ Cretchzmars Buntings which had taken up residence on the lawn right outside our room.

    

Cretchzmars Bunting, Kibbutz Lotan

Sardinian Warbler, Kibbutz Lotan

Cinereous Bunting, Kibbutz Lotan

Next on the agenda today (after more gherkins, cottage cheese and dodgy jam for breakfast in the Lotan canteen!) were the Eilat Mountains. En route to a site near Mount Yoash we noted several kettles of Steppe Buzzards migrating through the Arava Valley totalling several hundred birds. The arid and extremely hot mountains failed to inspire us a great deal and the hoped for Sinai Rosefinches failed to show. We did however managed soem good views of Sand Partridge, loads more Steppe Buzzards and a White-crowned Black Wheatear.

 Then to North Beach Eilat for another look at the Brown Booby and our first sightings of 3 stunning Pied Kingfishers before we made the trudge inland to search the Southern Date Palm area. This area was probably the most uninspiring site we visited on the whole trip but after a long time searching we eventually located a flock of c20 Indian Silverbills right on the border fence with Jordan. There were a few other migrants around such as 2 Black-eared Wheatears, 2 Redstarts and 2 Tree Pipits but apart from those, 2 Ring-necked Parakeets and our only Chaffinch seen in the south we were glad to move on to pastures new.

An afternoon and evening visit to KM19/20 proved extremely productive. As well as the flamingo flock still containing the Lesser Flamingo the lagoons at KM20 were thronging with waders including an impressive 9 Greater Sandplovers, 60 Black-winged Stilts, 75 Kentish Plovers, 200 Little Stints and 25 Marsh Sandpipers amongst a good variety of commoner waders we're more used to seeing back home. A backing cast of 60 Slender-billed Gulls and 3 species of Wheatear added to a wonderful afternoon before what was hoped to be the main event at KM19 in the evening.

Before settling down by the disused sewage settling reservoirs we explored the area of reedy pools behind the cattle sheds at KM19. These revealed a plethora of wagtails including some amazing views of Citrine Wagtail amongst many Black-headed and White Wagtails, c500 Short-toed Larks, many Spanish Sparrows, 3 Bluethroats, 2 Squacco Herons and 2 female Little Crakes were winkled out of the emergent vegetation. Then the pre-dusk vigil by the corner of one of the settling reservoirs began. While waiting we were treated to a fly-over 1s Great Black-headed Gull before, just as darkness was descending the bubbling call of Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse was heard and 4 birds appeared out of nowhere to drink at the waters edge as the sun sank on an truly memorable day.

 25 March 2006

The day started with our customary visit to our friends the ringers on the kibbutz before breakfast and our 'in the hand' lists grew by a few species very quickly with a stunning male Ruppell's Warbler, Olivaceous Warbler and Wryneck all proving too tempting for the photographers amongst us.

Ruppell's Warbler, Kibbutz Lotan

Olivaceous Warbler, Kibbutz Lotan

Wryneck, Kibbutz Lotan

Just prior to breakfast (and thankfully before too much disturbance) another Cinereous Bunting was located on the grassy area just outside the canteen and we got some excellent views of this 'semenowi' race bird before it was flushed by kibbutz residents keen to get to their breakfast (though god knows why!)

  

Cinereous Bunting, Kibbutz Lotan

Following the previous days relative failure in the Eilat Mountains we headed there again to the deserted carpark and 'camping' area just below Mount Yoash. This time we were far more lucky with 5 Sinai Rosefinches loctaed quickly and watched very well on the arid flat rocky area. All were female types with just one perhaps showing a slight pink tinge. We also chanced upon our only Hooded Wheatear of the whole trip and had to do a double take to get the id right having almost dismissed it as a Northern. We were looking into the sun as our excuse! In the same small area we also had 4 Sand Partridges a male White-crowned Black Wheatear and a Desert Lark. 

  

Hooded Wheatear, Eilat Mountains

After a struggle due to new road building since Andy had been to Eilat we eventually found the old Eilat Pumping Station which was formerly famous for it's dusk visits by Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse. This proved to hold very little of interest so we moved onto the nearby Eliat Cemetry where diligent searching revealed 3 Sand Partridges clamerbing over the graves, Wryneck, 4 Blackstarts and Redstart before we finally located our target bird when we were just about to give up -  a pair of Mountain Buntings right at the top end of the cemetry. This recently split species really is the duller cousin of the House Buntings we had in Morocco the previous year.      

Mountain Bunting, Eilat Cemetry

The afternoon was spent back at our favourite KM19 where some excellent birding was had in an extended visit to the area behind the cattle sheds. 3 Little Crakes were winkled out of the vegetation surrounding the flooded pits which also produced 4 Citrine Wagtails and a bewildering array of flava wagtails including 'beema', 'thunbergi', 'feldegg' and the distinctive 'dombrowski', a red-spotted Bluethroat, Tawny Pipit, Water Pipit and 5 Red-throated Pipits. Star bird of the afternoon went to 2 Bimaculated Larks amongst a flock of over 500 Short-toed Larks on the dry 'carpark' area closely followed by 30+ Desert Finches.

 

That evening, after the sunbathers had gone we decided to spend some time at the famous site of Eilat North Beach in search of some of the specialities of the Gulf of Aquaba. And it proved to be one of the best evenings we have ever spent! Birding that is! I really don't want to know what the boys have got up to on non-birding evenings! In a couple of hours on the beach we managed an amazing 4 new WP birds - the hoped for White-eyed Gulls eventually gave in and provided some great views as they gradually ventured closer to the beach as the evening wore on. 2+ Striated Herons were also picked out on the distant fishing booms but it has to be emphasised that these do require some work and patience. Eyes were strained trying to pick out Western Reef Heron amongst the masses of Little Egrets on the same fishing booms but we were rewarded for our efforts when a grey blotched bird flew inland (to roost?) right over our heads. The prize for bird of the evening was an incredible Red-billed Tropicbird which ventured down the gulf, circled over the town of Eilat before being lost back out to sea against a setting sun. We wrere soon 'high-fiving' with the small group of birders present. Except for one poor dutch lad who'd failed to get on to the bird! Other goodies that evening were 4 Caspian Terns, the Brown Booby, 7 Great White Egrets, 2 Pied Kingsishers, 2 Greater Sandplovers, 3 Alpine Swifts and a migrating flock of c250 Garganey over the sea.

26 March 2006

Another early morning round of the kibbutz which we were now working like an observatory! The Sociable Plover was back and showing well after being missing for 2 days. Who knows where it could have got to. The best birds around the grounds and organic garden were an adult Great Spotted Cuckoo, 1 Ruppell's Warbler, 3 Quail, c15 Short-toed Larks, 2 Red-throated Pipits plus some great in the hand views of Isabelline Wheatear, Palestine Sunbird and Nightingale.

   

Isabelline Wheatear, Kibbutz Lotan   

Palestine Sunbird, Kibbutz Lotan

The organic garden, Kibbutz Lotan

Mid to late morning was spent back up at the raptor watchpoint in the Eilat Mountains where we added Steppe Eagle to WP lists in the form of 3 different individuals amongst c460 Steppe Buzzards, 3 Long-legged Buzzards, c25 Black Kites, a female Pallid Harrier and a Black Stork. The Nubian Ibex we had seen on all our visits here showed more than a hint that they're used to visiting birders and tourists! 

 

At the raptor watchpoint in the Eilat Mountains

Nubian Ibex, Eilat Mountains

Being Englishmen we then decided to venture out into the midday sun at Yotvata at a site given to us by Jonathan. Yotvata is a large area on both sides of the road near the KM50 post and the area we tried first was by what is known as the old ploice station on the western side of the road. Amazingly within just a few minutes we were watching a male Arabian Warbler clambering clumsily around in the 1st acacia bush we came to! In the same small area were 2 Ruppell's Warblers, 2 Scrub Warblers and singles of Blackstart, Wryneck and Palestine Sunbird. We also located a single Acacia Gazelle in the distance in this now enclosed area. One of only 15 left in the world and carefully protected. Next we tried an area known as the circular field at Yotvata which is on the eastern side of the road. A long walk in very hot conditions didn't help but we found this site rather uninspiring. A walk of the fields did produce 6 Quail, c30 Red-throated Pipits, 600+ Short-toed Larks, 5 Crested Larks and c500 Spanish Sparrows but not the hoped for Oriental Skylark. 3 Little Green Bee-eaters, a Woodchat and 16 fly over Tristram's Grackles did their best to liven proceedings.

 

The day was concluded with another visit to KM19 where amongst the same general species as seen before we eventually managed to locate the Baillon's Crake that had eluded us thus far. Full marks to Justy for perseverance! The 2 Bimaculated Larks were still present as were 2 Little Crakes (male and female), 1 Turtle Dove proved to be the only one of the trip whilst our flava wagtail education continued with a curious individual showing a grey and green head.

   

Curious flava wagtail, KM19 

After a few beers that evening at the Lotan 'pub' Justin managed some flash photos of an Ethiopian Hedgehog after pursuing it over the lawns next to our accomodation! 

Ethiopian Hedgehog, Kibbutz Lotan

27 March 2006

Today began not with our usual trip around the ringing area within the kibbutz but instead at KM76 just a few kilometers north along the main road. This had been a reported as having some good birds on one of the greenest pieces of semi-desert in the valley. It was to be an excellent choice with a couple of hours producing a superb male Pallid Harrier north, a Peregrine, 9 Lesser Kestrels lingering on wires, 3 Cream-coloured Coursers, 1 Quail, 8 Spotted Sandgrouse over, c10 Tawny Pipits, c5 Red-throated Pipits, c50 Black-headed Wagtails, c5 Black-eared Wheatears, 1 Isabelline Wheatear, a Nightingale, c5 Redstarts, Pallid Swift, 1 Whitethroat and numerous Lesser Whitethroats as usual.

Next stop were the Eilat Mountains to the south and although we were a little late in arriving for the raptor passage we did still clock impressive numbers of Steppe Buzzards, 2 Egyptian Vultures, 1 Steppe Eagle, 1 Long-legged Buzzard, c50 Black Kites and 5 Black Storks plus some good views of a pair of Sand Partridges.

 

Following that we headed the very short distance further up the mountain road to the small roadside carparking area at En Netaphim from which Mr Wilkinson had confidently assured us that it was only a short walk to the famous spring. A long, hot and thirsty hike later (!) we found ourselves in the spot at the top of a cliff looking down into the gorge where despite birds being in thin supply we managed a few goodies. Best by far were the 3 Sinai Rosefinches (including a spanking adult male) coming fown to drink at the tiny spring. In addition we had 2-3 Desert Larks, a White-crowned Black Wheatear, a Blackstart, 2 Tristram's Grackles and a Brown-necked Raven.

   

At En Netaphim      

With time to kill and most of the birding sites in the area now covered we spent a highly enjoyable couple of hours snorkelling in the Red Sea off the end of a jetty at Coral Beach just south of Eilat. For any birder visting the area pleasse try to make time for this because it is a fantastic experience and as good as any of the birding. Some of the fish along the coral reef have to be seen to be believed!  Then a quick stop at Eilat North Beach confirmed the Brown Booby to still be present and after that we headed to the sewage pools at Yotvata. Here we had a good variety of birds despite the quickly strengthening wind - Bluethroats were particularly in evidence with 4+ while we also had singles of Reed, Marsh and Sedge Warbler plus 1 Arabian Babbler. Waders were well represented with 1 Marsh Sandpiper, 5+ Green Sandpipers, 2 Wood Sandpipers, 1 Common Sandpiper, 2 Spur-winged Plovers and 2 Black-winged Stilts. Star bird however was the Little Crake we chanced upon while a large falcon sp was either Peregrine or Barbary. Less problematic were the Osprey and 40+ Tristram's Grackles by the petrol station.

A quick zip round KM20 revealed all the species seen on previous visits plus c10 Bee-eaters, 2 Black-eared Wheatears and a Nightingale.

It seemed fitting that our last evening in the area be spent at KM19 where we paid homage to 6 Lichenstein's Sandgrouse as they came in to drink in the favoured corner. 4 flew in right over our shoulders and plonked themselves down just 4 yards in front of us! Add to this 2 Spoonbills, 1 Squacco Heron, 1 Night Heron our only Turtle Dove of the trip and the sun setting over Jordan and we all agreed we'd done the area justice.

Lichtenstein's Sandgrouse, KM19

  

  

Yours truly at KM19                    

28 March 2006

Our last morning rounds at Lotan before we began the northern leg of the trip produced the usual good selection of migrants that we'd come to expect over the previous few days. It's so easy to become blasé! This morning we had 3 Isabelline Wheatears, 2 Northern Wheatears, 1 Tawny Pipit, 2 Red-throated Pipits, 1 obliging male Masked Shrike, a Hoopoe, 2 Spur-winged Plovers, 2 'dombrowski' Yellow Wagtails and a Whitehroat amongst the usual commoner species.

 

Masked Shrike, Kibbutz Lotan

We bid a fond farewell to Lotan but wanting one last stop in the area plumped for another quick look at KM76 on our way north. It was a good call with the previous days reported Cyprus Warbler (a female of 1st year male) being found and showing well. 3 Lesser Kestrels still lingered as did a dapper Black-eared Wheatear.

We eventually tore ourselves away and began the drive north towards the Dead Sea and En Gedi. Despite this being rather touristy and full of picnicers we scored easily with c25 of the main target species Fan-tailed Raven which proved to be quite tame around the carparks. 2 Arabian Babblers fed in a skip (!) whilst we also had 1 Blackstart, 1 Crag Martin and numerous noisy Tristram's Grackles. Nubian Ibex were also very tame and approchable in the carpark! Unable to resist the temptation we then had a float in the ultra salty Dead Sea and showered down afterwards before we ventured further north to our next port of call.

 

The Dead Sea, En Gedi 

At En Gedi

Fan-tailed Raven, En Gedi

Fan-tailed Ravens, En Gedi

Arabian Babbler, Ed Gedi

Tristram's Grackle, Ed Gedi

Blackstart, En Gedi

Dead Sea frollicks!

This was the area of limestone hills around Mount Gilboa. Gradually the landscape grew more green as we headed north and deciding to find our next kibbutz first (and in daylight) we headed to Beit Alfa and secured our room (pre-booked) before setting out to the site nearby. We found the site relatively easily and parked in a large lay-by opposite some suitable looking pieces of hillside. Distrurbing a courting couple in their car (was her head really moving up and down in his lap?!) we began scanning the hillside of long grass and scattered rocks. It was difficult terrain to work, especially as it was only viewable from the road. Eventually we located a singing Long-billed Pipit and all got some reasonable but quite distant views before is disappeared into the long grass again. Just then our Spanish friends Pablo and Clemente bowled up and we were able to swap some info and latest sightings as we were all obviously following a very similar itinerary! The site also gave us Osprey, Short-toed Eagle, Blue Rock Thrush, a Cretzschmars Bunting and 3+ Corn Buntings as well as 4 Mountain Gazelles and 8 Rock Hyrax.

That night at Kibbutz Beit Alfa would become famous for the night Justy managed to blind both Scops Owl and a roosting Smyrna Kingfisher with his flashlight! The 2 Jays of the distictive race 'atricapillus' weren't anywhere near as entertaining.

Jay, Kibbutz Beit Alfa

29 March 2006

Not totally satisfied with our views the previous afternoon we decided to take our packed breakfast back to Mount Gilboa and this time we were rewarded with some excellent prolonged views of 2 singing Long-billed Pipits in the same spot as previously. Add to this a stunnign red-phase Cuckoo, 1 Chukar, Short-toed Eagle, 1 Palestine Sunbird, a samamiscus Redstart and a Southern Grey Shrike we were more than happy to spend a short while locating and photographing several of the endemic Mount Gilboa Iris in nearby woods before we quit the scene.

 

With Pablo and Clemente, Mount Gilboa

Our next stop was at the roadside Nir David Fishponds which enabled us to get to grips with c20 Armenian Gulls as well as some excellent views of 20+ Night Herons and c5 Pied Kingfishers. as we left the site and headed north again it got even better though. It was obvious that raptor movement was happening with c25 Black Kites, 1 Long-legged Buzzard and 2 Short-toed Eagles (as well as c100 White Storks) so when 2 eagles caused us to anchor on and grab the scopes we were hoping for the best. And our hopes were well founded as following a good look and consultation with the faithful Collins guide we were able to confidently declare them as Lesser Spotted Eagles. We continued our journey through the biblical lands and past the Sea of Gallillee in happy heart clocking 5 Smyrna Kingfishers en-route before heading past the infamous Golan Heights and on to Mount Hermon right in the very NE corner of the country.

 

Armenian Gulls, Nir David Fishponds

We arrived at the large ski-station carpark after a winding drive up the approach road and no real birds of note. Purchasing our passes for the ski lift we mounted the precarious contraptions and began to trundle upwards dangling above the rocky mountainside. And within a few minutes we were in thick fog! This was to hamper our birding a lot over the next couple of hours and we saw very little despite trying our best. We saw only 4 Rock Sparrows located on call and stalked in the gloom. Descending back to the carpark we had a coffee in the cafe and found 2 semirufous Black Redstarts but nothing else at all. Rather dissapointed we made our way down to a slightly lower level and walked along a side valley where things livened up a bit. But only a bit with just 2 Sombre Tits and a Chukar troubling the scorers.

 

Mount Hermon ski lift

 

Wot no birds! Mount Hermon

Mount Hermon

Mount Hermon ski lift

Next we decided to proceed to the village of Neve Ativ on the southern side of the mountains and it was here that things got a lot better. Finding a good spot overlooking orchards (and now in sunshine!) we had one of the birds of the trip in the form of 4 Syrian Serins that tinkled in and posed on wires. Within just 2 minutes of scoring with these little crackers we fluked a Syrian Woodpecker flying past and settling in a willow to allow some good but brief scope views. The area also gave us 2 Hawfinches, c12 Jays, Song Thrush, Wren and several Goldfinches, Linnets and Chaffinches together with periodic further views of the Syrian Serins in the trees of the orchard. Overhead a Steppe Buzzard and 2 Short-toed Eagles also entertained as did an old man who kept insisting that the Golan Heights were still in Syria. Presumably a displaced local who now finds himself an Israeli resident!

 

Syrian Serin, Neve Ativ (copyright Pablo Fernandez) 

Syrian Woodpecker, Neve Ativ (copyright Pablo Fernandez) 

Neve Ativ

Buoyed by our eventual success we headed a few miles south westwards to the well vegetated gorge of Wadi Armoud. Here we very quickly located our target birds and saw upwards of 250 Little Swifts that roost on the cliffs of the gorge. 5+ Red-rumped Swallows, several House Martins, many Swallows, 1 Cuckoo, 1 Palestine Sunbird (our most northerly one) , 15 Cattle Egrets and a Long-legged Buzzard were also bagged whilst Rock Hyrax were extremely vocal as dusk fell and one gave mega close views beside the path just into the gorge.

We returned to Kibbutz Beit Alfa after a long but ultimately very fruitful day.

Wadi Armoud

30 March 2006

Our last day and one where we needed to get back to the Mediterranean coast by the end of the day for our flight from Tel Aviv early the following morning.

Checking out of the kibbutz we headed first to the extensive area of fishponds at Kfar Ruppin. The area is still being worked and there was a fair bit of traffic from diggers and the like but nobody paid any notice to us so we wandered around at will. Spending a good couple of hours working the area paid dividends with excellent numbers and a good variety of species. Best were the 4 Pygmy Cormorants of which 2 posed long enough for some photographs but equally impressive were the 6 Ospreys that patrolled the ponds all the time we were there. Probably the most noticable feature were the kingfishers though with all 3 species present. We had c25 Pied Kingfishers, c8 Smyrna Kingfishers and a single Common Kingfisher. Waders were scattered but included c15 Spur-winged Plovers and single or small numbers of Common Sandpiper, Green Sandpiper, Little Ringed Plover and Snipe. 10+ Armenian Gulls allowed a good close scrutiny and 2 crakes flushed were thought to be Littles. Add to this a ringtail Hen Harrier, a huge kettle of c2000 White Storks, several Black Kites, a Great White Egret and 3 Garganey while passerines consisted of c5 Clamorous Reed Warblers, loads of Graceful Warblers, 1 Sedge Warbler and 3 Cetti's Warblers. That's not the mention the 2 Otters which crossed the path right in front of me but quickly dived into cover.

Pygmy Cormorants, Kfar Ruppin

Armenian Gull, Kfar Ruppin

Smyrna Kingfisher, Kfar Ruppin

Spur-winged Plover, Kfar Ruppin

Our penultimate site of the trip was the nearby fishponds at Neve Eitan which we spotted from the road as we drove past. Our attention was drawn by the numerous gulls and a stop revealed 7 marvellous Great Black-headed Gulls (all adults and 3 in full summer plumage), numerous Armenian Gulls, several Caspian Gulls and a single Baltic Gull. 2 Spoonbills, 2 Great White Egrets, many Little Egrets, 3 Ospreys, a Garganey, 2 Pied Kingfishers and 1 Clamorous Reed Warbler completed the picture.

 

Great Black-headed Gull, Neve Eitan

We then undertook the drive westwards to the Med coast and decided to make our last port of call the coastal lagoons at Ma'agan Mikhael. These we easily found and provided some nice easy birding from the entrance track. Herons were dominant with large numbers of Little Egrets, 1 Great White Egret, 20+ Grey Herons and c10 Night Herons joined by a 1st summer Black Stork at the waters edge. Sadly there were quite a few dead herons and egrets tangled in the nets that were over some of the pools. Gulls were everywhere too with several Caspian Gulls and a single Baltic Gull being picked out from the masses of Armenian Gulls. A brief look on the beach and we luckily added 2 Stone Curlews to the trip list but the other waders present were confined to a few Spur-winged Plovers and Black-winged Stilts. Other sightings of note were a summer plumaged Black-necked Grebe, a Marsh Harrier, c20 photographic Pied Kingfishers, 2+ Clamorous Reed Warblers a Northern Wheatear and prolonged views of 5 Egyptian Mongoose!

 

Ma'agan Mikhael

Pied Kingfisher, Ma'agan Mikhael

Black Stork, Ma'agan Mikhael

Driving south along the coast we stopped at a roadside cafe/service station and had to be metal detected on our way in - a stark reminder of the constant bomb threat this close to the capital.

That night we found a hotel in the seaside town of Netanya and in a quick seawatch from the balcony as the sun sank we managed c5 Cory's Shearwaters as our very last new bird.

The trip had surpassed even our most optimistic forecasts and had given us a trip list of 206 species with a personal tally of no less than 44 WP ticks!